Question from Linda

Do Swarovski crystals pose a health danger? Say if I wear a Swarovski crystal necklace, can the lead leach off the beads and penetrate my skin and into the bloodstream causing lead poisoning? What about their Aurora Borealis beads? Those are quoted with tin foil (so I’ve been told) at back, meaning this would directly touch the throat area. If it’s hot and I’m wearing either, is leaching inevitable or are they somehow safe? Thank you for your help.

Debra’s Answer

Swarovski crystals DO contain lead, however, they say “the crystal manufacturing process creates a matrix which inhibits the mobility of lead. In other words, lead is bound into the structure of the crystal. Because of this structure, lead crystal poses no significant risk of excessive lead exposure to human health via surface contact (hand to mouth), mouthing or even ingestion. Indeed, Swarovski crystals have been tested under a variety of test methods for extractable lead. Test conditions and procedures do vary, but lead levels are well below regulatory limits even when the crystal is tested in an acid solution to maximize the release of lead.” Read more about this at http://www.i-kandi.com/CPSIA-Crystal-Lead-Statement.htm

Tin could be absorbed by the skin with contact, so I would not recommend wearing the Aurora Borealis beads against your skin. You could wear them over clothing if you want.

Question from Sheri

I have MCS also..I need a new couch and new chair. What advice can you give me on brands or what to look for to protect myself and my pets from the outgassing. Glue really bothers me and formyaldehyde. Thanks, Sheri

Debra’s Answer

Readers, any other creative suggestions?

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TB117-2013 is a new California flammability standard for upholstered furniture (which includes, couches, padded chairs, but NOT mattresses). Because it is not feasible for manufacturers to make different versions of products for different states, the California standard has effectively been and will continue to be the standard for the entire United States. Currently it’s still in the proposal stage, but it’s in the news this week because the deadline to make comments is next Tuesday, March 26.

California Governor Jerry Brown has directed the Bureau of Electronic & Appliance Repair, Home Furnishings and Thermal Insulation to redo the TB117 flammability standard in a way that reduces the use of flame-retardants while still maintaining fire safety. But will the currently proposed revision actually do that?

The existing TB117 rule requires the filling materials of household furnishings (polyurethane foam in most cases) to pass an open-flame test. This is where the foam is exposed to a flame and the foam is required to meet specific flammability criteria. Because polyurethane foam is has an “open cell” structure, there is a tremendous amount of air available between the thin cell walls, which makes the foam extremely flammable. In order to comply with the extisting law, foam manufacturers have to add flame-retardant chemicals into the foam.

These flame-retardant chemicals, however, are only of limited value, because once the foam does ignite, the resulting fire can be just as massive as a fire with untreated foam. Even worse, once there is a fire, the various flame-retardant chemicals are released into the air and create even more toxic conditions for residents and fire fighters. Fire retardants have been found in the blood of fire fighters, and cancer rates are up among them.

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Question from Catherine

Hello, I let my niece borrow my breastpump and upon getting it back noticed a strong floral perfume scent. I called her and she laughed…I guesss it was stored in her front room where she has candles and oils present all the time. I had to throw all of the plastic componants away tubing etc…they wouldn’t wash out. Now I am wondering if the motor is okay or if I should buy a new pump altogether. I don’t think the scent can contaminate with new parts, but want to be sure

Debra’s Answer

Personally, I would just buy a new pump.

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Question from J in Va

I have done away with harmful cleaning products in our home. My concern is any accidental contact with bleach or ammonia residue from cleansers that may have been used previously. For example, I am becoming a big fan of vinegar. Is it safe to clean bathrooms that may have previously been cleaned with a cleaner containing bleach? Is a good rinse with water sufficient before trying a different product? And what about laundry? Can I use vinegar in my laundry immediately following someone else who may have used bleach? Trying to avoid any mishaps! I also have discovered Scotch Brite disinfecting wipes with cleanwell. Do I need to take any special precautions with using those? If only labels would be clear! Thanks so much for all you do to keep us on the right track!

Debra’s Answer

There are some cleaners you do need to take care to not combine, particularly ammonia and bleach, which can produce deadly fumes.

Don’t combine bleach with vinegar either, as it releases toxic chlorine gas from the bleach. But I doubt there would be enough bleach, if any, on a surface previously-cleaned-with-bleach to cause any problem. If you have any doubt, rinse the surface first with plain water. Also any bleach residue in the washer should not be a problem.

You don’t need to take any special precautions with Scotch Brite disinfecting wipes with cleanwell. “Cleanwell” is simply thyme oil. This product is made with sodium lauryl sulfate and thyme oil. It’s the thyme oil that is the disinfectant. You could just mix thyme oil with anything you want as a carrier.

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Question from E.K

I came across a placemat that is made of durable sheets that have been laminated. I did a search on laminates but I couldn’t find anything pertaining to this type of lamination or if it has any relation to laminate flooring. I was hoping you would be able to help with this situation. I’m looking for non-toxic placemats that are not cotton. (Have a toddler and would like something that I could wipe down) I have come across silicone placemats and children’s rubber placemats but that’s about it. Are there any other option that you know of? Does the laminate off gas or unsafe to eat off of? Thanks so much for all you do!

Debra’s Answer

The word “laminate” simply means that multiple layers have been fused together to improve performance. A laminate is usually made permanent with heat, pressure, welding, or adhesives.

A laminate floor is made from layers of wood and adhesives.

A laminate placemat is usually some type of artwork sandwiched between two pieces of plastic. If you’ve ever taken a driver’s license or luggage tags to a copy store to be laminated, it’s the same process. You put the driver’s license between two sheets of plastic and run it through a machine that applies heat and pressure, and when it comes out, it’s protected with a thin film of hard, clear plastic.

The standard plastic for lamination is polyethylene perephthalate (PET), the same plastic used to make soda bottles.

Antimony is used as a catalyst in the production of PET. After manufacturing, a detectable amount of antimony can be found on the surface of the product. This residue can be removed with washing. Antimony also remains in the material itself and can, thus, migrate out into food and drinks. Would this be a danger on placemats? Probably the more you wipe it, the less antimony there would be.

Personally, I don’t have any laminated placemats in my house. I use cotton placemats that I can throw in the washer and sanitize with hot water.

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Question from Linda

I have central heating with duct work that is not sealed tight so it is not energy efficient and it has asbestos. I need to decide between leaving the existing duct work with the asbestos or removing and replacing it.

The company I am working with is recommending air ducts that are Greenguard certified for Indoor Air Quality and for children and schools. These ducts have a fiberglass core. I am confused by this certification that is rating it as safe and yet it has a fiberglass core. I do not know enough about this subject to be able to evaluate whether this is a good option.

Here is a link to the Greenguard Environmental Institute, www.greenguard.org. Here is a link to the air duct company ,http://www.jplflex.com/products/default.asp. The product I am considering is the “silver jacket.” If you click on it, you can get more detailed info, click again and you can see the “data sheet.”

Do you recommend this product or another product? Removing the central heat is not an option. Thanks!

Debra’s Answer

I don’t have any experience with this product but it looks to me that the fiberglass in between two layers of stainless steel. So it should meet that Greenguard standard. I don’t see a problem with this product.

Readers, any suggestions for air ducts?

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Question from kristen

Are you familiar with Phenol-formaldehyde used in cookware products? Specifically a metal tea kettle, where the lid and handle are made of this material. I know formaldehyde is toxic, but in this application do you think it is releasing anything or could leach out in any way? Thank you for your time.

Debra’s Answer

Yes I am familiar with this. It’s been called “the first real plastic”. It is formed from an elimination reaction of phenol with formaldehyde. During the manufacturing process, the phenol and formaldehyde react to make a new material that is not toxic. It has been used to make many consumer products and is still used today. It’s not releasing anything and not leaching. You can use it without concern.

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Question from Cindy

I bought two unfinished pine beds at IKEA for my granddaughters that I would like to paint or varnish, but I’m not sure how to go about doing this in the most nontoxic way. I’m not only concerned with toxins, but also termites getting into the wood. Would the wood need to be treated with Timbor or something similar before painting? Or would a nontoxic wood finish be sufficient? And if I decide to paint a color, would the wood finish need to be applied first, or is the color alone sufficient? I would appreciate your best recommendations. I’ve already purchased wool mattresses from Shepherd’s Dream, & want to make sure both of my granddaughters have a good nontoxic bed. Thank you so much for all you do.

Debra’s Answer

You don’t need to treat the wood first. According to Dr. Don’s Termite Pages , “If they don’t know it is wood, they may not find it. Keep all exterior wood well coated with paint or varnish, especially the larger bits and at the joins and ends. Drywood termites begin their attack with just two termites. First the female selects a likely place to live and then pairs up with a male before they start tunnelling. So if you can make the wood unattractive, the termites won’t even try. A bit of preservative can go a long way. If it doesn’t taste good, the termites won’t hang around.”

If you decide to paint a color, generally the color is applied first and then the wood finish goes on top, or a colored finish is used.

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