from Debra Lynn Dadd

After making a comment in a recent post about not using paper towels because they contain formaldehyde, I received this shocked email from a long-time reader

Debra,

I can’t believe that I have been trying to be as toxic free as possible for many, many years and I am still using paper towels daily! Your website as had lots of information through the years about paper towels, including your comments regarding Cathy’s question on August 11 about non-toxic lining for drawers.

I contacted Bounty (Procter&Gamble) and this is the list of ingredients sent me. What do you think?

You can post that information if you think it would be beneficial to others in you Q&A section.

Thank you very much.

Thanks for contacting Bounty, Stephanie.

Below is the ingredients for the Bounty Towels & Napkins

We do not intentionally add formaldehyde to our products, and we check that our raw materials do not contain any formaldehyde either.

Since we don’t add or use formaldehyde in the processing of the product, we don’t test for it in the finished product.

It may be helpful to know that formaldehyde is a naturally occurring substance, and can be detected in wood pulp at very low concentrations

Hope this helps.

Wendy
Bounty Team

Need to get back in touch? Please do not change the subject line, just hit reply. This makes sure we receive your message

At first glance this paper towel seems to not contain formaldehyde, however, it does contain “Wet Strength Polymer.”

What is that?

According to Paper Functional Chemicals- Wet Strength Resins, papers such as filter papers, hygienic papers, papers for bags, label papers, wallpapers, laminate base papers, and packaging papers for moist goods can only fulfill their function if they have adequate “wet strength” (the ability to hold together when exposed to water.

The way wet strength is achieved is by using wet-strenth resins (WSR).

“the most common WSR are urea formaldehyde resins (UF-resins) and melamine formaldehyde resins (MF-resins), These chemicals need acid pH conditions and the presence of alum in the papermaking process. For neutral pH conditions polyamide-epichlorohydrin resins (PAE-resins) are mainly used (e. g. for hygiene and laminate papers); polyethylenimine products are used for specialty papers such as industrial filter papers and shoe board.”

This article notes that urea-formaldehyde resins are the least expensive (so likely to be most common). They can be added to the wet mix, “but they can be also used via surface application in the paper machine.” That means the resin is lying right on the surface of the paper.

I don’t know enough about the chemistry of how this works to make an evaluation of how these chemicals interact with the cellulose. I do know that chemicals can react and turn into something else entirely, such as fat and lye make soap.

I also don’t know how much, if any, formaldehyde emissions come from paper, but they are well-known from urea-formaldehyde foam insulation and composite wood products. I first heard about formaldehyde in paper towels years ago from people with MCS who reacted to paper towels.

Click through to the article if you want to learn more about what is used to make paper. This is an industry website with lots of information.

Read more here about Toxins in Toilet Paper.

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Question from TA

I am looking for a waterproof mattress protector to take along while traveling, to protect the bed from any leaks my toddler might have. It seems like the best options I’ve found so far are the “waterproof breathable” mattress covers, which are cotton terry with a polyurethane membrane:

MALOUF SLEEP TITE Hypoallergenic 100% Waterproof Mattress Protector – 15-Year U.S. Warranty – Vinyl Free – Queen

Queen Size Luna Premium Hypoallergenic 100% Waterproof Mattress Protector – Made in the USA – Vinyl Free

SafeRest Queen Size Premium Hypoallergenic Waterproof Mattress Protector – Vinyl Free

The prices seem reasonable, and the SafeRest and Luna ones have over 3,000 reviews each, most of which are positive. I see a number of good things: made in the USA, free of PVC, not thick or crinkly, protects against dust mites and allergens, etc. But what I’d like to know is whether you think this polyurethane membrane is non-toxic and free of chemical smells. It appears to fold up like a sheet and would be easy to take when traveling (well, easier than a bulkier mattress pad, anyway!). I need to get something right away, but I’m holding back until I get more assurance about this PU membrane. It definitely seems better than PVC. What do you make of it?

The disposable options don’t seem like a great idea, and other smaller options tend to have plastics and PVC. Wool is pricey and thicker/heavier to haul along with all our other travel gear. Vinyl is a definite “no.” A folded-up towel isn’t super effective and smaller things like that also shift around while sleeping on them. So I keep coming back to a mattress cover like these I linked to above, but I’d just like to feel sure that they are free of toxicity.

Ughhh… Now that I looked more closely at the Q&A on the product pages for the Luna and the SafeRest covers, I see that customers asked what materials are used in the covers, and the answer is 80% cotton and 20% polyester. I had assumed that the cotton terry was 100% cotton. It appears that this one might be 100% cotton surface:
www.amazon.com/LinenSpa-Waterproof-Mattress-Protector-Eliminates-Warranty/dp/B00A2WEJY4

In all cases, I see reviews that say “my toddler (or dog) had an accident or diaper leak or spill on the bed and nothing got through to the mattress” and those that say “my toddler (or dog) had an accident/leak/spill on the bed and the mattress got soaked.” I don’t know why there would be such variability in user experiences. The reviews overall seem positive. There are also differing report about whether the covers make the users feel hot and sweaty. Along the same lines, I came across the Gotcha Covered mattress cover that uses organic cotton and a recycled PU backing; but the price is considerably higher (more than 3 times higher than some of the others), and out of 4 reviews, 2 of them are negative, saying “hot and sweaty” and “not waterproof.” Since it’s something I need just for travel, I’m not inclined to pay that much more for something that might not work very well.

I also see this Natural Mat product, which is not as large of a cover; it is designed for a crib mattress, but I believe it would lie flat on the bed. They also use PU, but it is apparently contained between the 2 layers of organic cotton.

I am aware that Naturepedic makes a safe cover, and I’ve actually had one. However, it is more expensive, fairly heavy, and it did not protect the new mattress it was used on from body oil. It wasn’t tested against urine, so I can’t speak to its effectiveness for that purpose.

Debra’s Answer

All of the mattress protectors you are describing are using the latest technology of a very thin layer of polyurethane fused to a fabric, so it can be waterproof without the sweatiness or noise of a vinyl mattress cover.

The difference between the different brands is the type of fabric used.

Because I’m familiar with the one sold by Naturepedic, I can tell you that the polyurethane film is completely nontoxic. I’ve seen and smelled samples of this film and there is no odor whatsoever.

And I’ve researched polyurethane. Polyurethane itself, as I’ve said many times before, is completely nontoxic. What makes polyurethane foam and polyurethane wood finish toxic is the additives. But this film is simply polyurethane. Though made from petroleum, it is nonetheless not toxic.

Naturepedic is so scrupulous about not using toxic materials that if Naturepedic uses a material, it can be trusted to be safe. In addition, they have their products tested by independent third parties that verify they meet nontoxic standards.

About their polyurethane film, Naturepedic says, “Drysleep uses a specially formulated polyurethane waterproof barrier that is proven to not leach harmful chemicals. It is made from the same grade material as is required for food contact applications. It also meets the highest standards for medical device biocompatibility (USP Class VI). It does not contain any fire retardants or antimicrobial treatments and is free of vinyl/PVC, phthalates and latex. It also easily passes the GREENGUARD “Gold” certification standards for chemical emissions. With a Naturepedic organic mattress pad, you never have to worry about harmful chemicals or allergenic materials.”

So this gives you something to compare to with the other brands.

As to whether or not this polyurethane film protects from urine or other liquids, I don’t know why it appeared to not work for some, but as you said, the majority of the reviews are positive. I see no reason not to use one of these mattress protectors.

Question from Patricia

Hi Debra,

I currently find myself living across a wall from a guy who found a bedbug.

His girlfriend who is there most of the time has a roommate who recently brought bedbugs back with her from NY. Their apartment has a full blown bedbug infestation.

I have a pretty pricey mattress that was a gift from my sister this last Christmas.

I have been unable to find a a safe mattress encasement anywhere. Where can I find one? Help!!!!!

Debra’s Answer

Patricia wrote back to me and said she found one at The Clean Bedroom and it’s on sale now for 20% off.

I just wanted to mention that I did some research on this before she called back, and I was erroneously told by one seller that a bed bug is smaller than a dust mite and so encasings made to keep dust mites out don’t work for bedbugs. That’s totally wrong. Dustmites are so small they are invisible, and you can see bed bugs, so any mattress encasing that completely encloses the mattress and is made to keep out dust mites would work for bed bugs.

Here’s a bit of info about dust mites and bed bugs.

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Question from Stacey

Hi Debra,

I purchased an outdoor table made of a “PE faux wood resin.” I have tried researching what exactly could be in this material, and I have come across some sites where the resin could be composed of PE/PP/PVC. Of course the PVC concerns me…I contacted the company a couple times, and one rep responded that the table was simply made of polyethylene, while another rep thought it might contain PVC, but was looking into it and hasn’t gotten back to me yet. Do you think I can trust that this table is only PE, or would you not trust it…Do they have to disclose that the table contains PVC, even if it is a smaller amount than the PE? Just wondering what you would do! I love the table and think it’s great for seaside, but would rather my family be safe!

Thanks so much!

Debra’s Answer

There are many labeling laws, but the overarching one is the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) “Truth in Advertising” law.

This says that “ads must be truthful, not misleading, and, when appropriate, backed by scientific evidence.”

This applies to labels too.

So per this law, if the label says PE it should contain PE and if it says PVC it should contain PVC.

I would assume that it is 100% PE and the first rep was right. But now that there has been a question about it from the other rep, I would follow through and get a confirmation.

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Question from Stacey

Hi Debra,

I purchased a pair of moccasins thinking they would be safer since they are made of suede, sheepskin, EVA/Poron cushioning, but I see they are also “water-resistant.” I contacted UGG Australia and a rep informed me that the shoes are treated with a protectant or coating to make them water-resistant. Would you return these, or is the coating harmless in a shoe?

Thank you!

Debra’s Answer

Actually water-resistant coatings can be pretty toxic. It’s better to get shoes that don’t have them.

I personally would return these shoes and look for others without the coating.

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Question from Beverly

I’m looking to buy a huge pot for cooking large batches of food, 21 quarts or even bigger. Ideally, I’d also like to be able to use it as a replacement for my water bath canner so that I don’t have to keep two giant pots around. I see lots of large cooking pots in the size I am looking for but they all seem to be either stainless steel or aluminum. I don’t see anything the size I need in cast iron or glass (which would be impossible to use anyway because of the weight). What would my best option be? I will be boiling water for huge amounts of pasta and cooking tomato-based products, among other things.

Debra’s Answer

My best recommendation for a HUGE pot is the 10 quart Dutch Oven from Xtrema. I have one and it is enormous. Bigger than any pot I’ve ever had. Completely ceramic through and through. I love it.

The only other option you have really would be an enamel pot such as this one from Granite Ware

I have this exact pot too, in a smaller size. I don’t use it because when I make soup it burns. The metal is not very thick. So it would be fine to boil jars for canning, for example, but I don’t cook in it.

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Question from Cathy

Hello Debra,

I’ve been looking everywhere on-line for help with this question, and I just remembered your website. I should have asked you first!

I have a new dresser, and I’d like to put some kind of liner in the drawers, to protect the wood from the clothes, and the clothes from the wood. 

Contact paper, fabric, wrapping paper with wallpaper paste (Mod Podge), cork, acid-free paper, parchment paper — I’ve looked into all of these and I’m not feeling good about any of them.

I’m thinking that the local frame shop’s acid-free mat paper might be my best bet, but I don’t know about what the material is made of, only that it’s acid-free.

Any ideas?

Many thanks,

Cathy

Debra’s Answer

Well, in the past I have just used a paper that I like.

All paper is basically made in the same way, from some kind of cellulose pulp. Most paper is made from wood pulp, very fine writing paper like Crane’s is made from cotton linters that are too small to be woven into yarn to make fabric. Nowadays many papers are made from recycled paper or fibers.

The thing that would make a difference regarding toxicity is if the paper is treated with something for performance (such as paper towels are treated with formaldehyde for strength) or when inks are added. Brightly colored wrapping paper is more toxic, for example, that a plain sheet of art paper intended to receive paint.

At my local art store like Michael’s, they have big sheets of colored papers that you can cut to size. You might see what they are treated with, if anything.

There are also handmade papers, which tend to not be treated, but may be sprayed with a finish. So always ask.

I can tell you in general about toxics that might be in paper, but always ask the manufacturer because there can be a lot of variation.

Readers, any suggestions?

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Question from audrey

I am writing for a friend who is looking for a new car and who has mcs. She found a car that she likes but it requires diesel fuel. Do you see any reason that this would be worse if one has mcs instead of using regular gas?

She also has seen some cars that have leather seats. She said the leather in cars about ten years ago seemed to be more toxic/smelly than the ones today. Do you know if this is true? Also she said she has read that some leather in cars are now having fragrance added to the leather. Was wondering if you knew anything about that and how can we stop such a foolish thing. Thank you for your help.

Debra’s Answer

Well, actually diesel exhaust contributes 15 times more secondary organic aerosol chemicals than gasoline emissions per liter of fuel burned. So gasoline would be a better choice for MCS.

Now leather seats. It depends on the seats. I have leather seats, but I bought my car used and they had not been treated with any kind of cleaner. I love my leather seats.

I once reupholstered my car seats with cotton canvas. I brought my fabric to a car upholstery place and they did it for me. So that is always an option.

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Question from Angelique

A pane in our metal multi-pane window broke. During repair, what kinds of materials do I have to look out for, and what would be best to use?

Debra’s Answer

Here are complete instructions:

Replacing a Pane of Glass on an Aluminum Window Frame

It mentions using clear silicone and vinyl strips (on the outside) to hold the pane in place.

Since this is standard for metal windows, I would just use these materials. The silicone should be for this purpose and is called “Glass-Metal Sealant.” It probably will have some fumes but they will outgas. Keep windows open, use fans.

For wood windows, you can install a pane with wood strips on either side. That’s one of the reasons I love wood windows.

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Question from JD

Hi Debra,

Let me start off by saying, I think you have done an amazing job in spreading the word and educating people on the dangers of toxicity. You have a wealth of information that can help others to understand and begin to live a toxic-free life. Thank you for that. 🙂

In all your research, have you ever come across Annie Hopper, founder of Dynamic Neural Retraining System and former MCS Sufferer? Annie’s program involves retraining your brain from being stuck in a trauma loop within one’s limbic system.

When Annie was suffering from MCS, she was on a mission to cure herself. The missing link, she found, was the study of the brain. She began to study about brains and references a book called, “The Brain That Changes Itself,” by Dr. Norman Doidge, in her program. She also includes a video clip of this doctor where he explains neuroplasticity.

Neuroplasticity: From Med.net – It is the brain’s ability to reorganize itself by forming new neural connections throughout life. Neuroplasticity allows the neurons (nerve cells) in the brain to compensate for injury and disease and to adjust their activities in response to new situations or to changes in their environment.

Two weeks ago, I began her program. As I began to educate myself on the limbic system and take part in the cognitive therapy portion of her program, the chronic “fight or flight” piece (the feeling of panic when breathing in toxic products or when foretelling and getting stuck in the “what ifs” before entering a public place), my anxieties decreased significantly.

I’ve struggled with MCS since the mid-90’s, and for the first time in almost 20 years, I am hopeful that I can fully recover. Don’t get me wrong, I’m 100% in agreement with organic food, toxic-free products, zeolite, and exercise, and know they have prevented me from getting really bad.

While I learned a lot about neuroplasticity, what fascinates me the most is the brain’s ability to get stuck in a rut and releasing send false messages to my body, such as heart palpitations, fatigue, swollen glands, going hoarse, headaches, digestive problems, puffy eyes, coughing, the list goes on. Moreover, the brain’s ability to retrain itself, thus leading to a healthier life, mentally, emotionally, and physically.

I admit, I thought Annie’s program might be hype, so I researched it thoroughly. What I found is that her vision is to facilitate global healing while also promoting environmental awareness that precipitates big changes in how we live on this planet.

Annie was a keynote speaker at a national Brain Injury Conference in June 2009, and delivered ground breaking research on “Acquired Toxic Brain Injuries and Neuroplasticity.” She was also a guest speaker at the American Academy of Environmental Medicine in 2013, held in Phoenix, Arizona.

There is also a doctor (I believe in her hometown) who refers all patients with MCS symptoms to Annie, because he got, and is getting, great results from patients that have tried or are trying her program.

Anyway, I’m sold on her program, and I thought you might be interested as another possible resource, should you agree with her program.

Thanks for all you do,

Julie Possee

Debra’s Answer

I don’t have any experience with this method so can’t comment on it, but I would like to take this opportunity to say that simply avoiding toxic chemicals is not enough to build health. There are many other factors, including other things that may be wrong with the body or mind, lack of nutrition, etc.

What elimination of toxic chemicals does is remove a continuous source of harm to your body, allowing your body to do other things that can contribute to healing. It’s like trying to empty a bathtub with the water running. If you continue to be exposed to toxic chemicals and try to do something else to heal your body, it’s likely not to work because toxic chemicals are continuing to pull your body down while you’re trying to make it heal.

But once you eliminate incoming toxic exposures and removing toxic chemicals stored in your body, there are any number of other things that can be done, and may need to be done to restore health.

This may be one of them for some people.

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